Note bene: This is a humbnail sketch of the California wine industry which dates back to 1769 when Father Junipero Serra planted the first vineyards at Mission San Juan Capistrano and at the other missions he founded in order to supply wine for meals, mass, and medicine. Fr. Junipero Serra wasn’t the first padre to plant vines. The first vines were planted in 1683 (in Baja?) but were later abandoned. (California has native grapes but they weren’t used for winemaking—yet).
By 1823, all, but four of the 23 missions had thriving vineyards. The showcase, Mission San Gabriel, had thee wine presses, eight brandy stills, producing 8000 gallons of wine, and 3000 gallons of brandy a year. The missions San José, and San Francisco de Solano (Sonoma) were also among the most productive wineries. Packaging was the biggest problem, oak barrels were in short supply, augmented by big bota bags, made with an entire cowhide, were used. In 1782, Father Serra lamented that an oak barrel enroute to thirsty Mission San Carlos, fell off the wagon, or mule, and broke. His account does not mention if they brought straws. I’m not sure if Jesus wept, but I’m sure copious tears were shed.
The ranchos of the Los Angeles River Basin, not Northern California, were the birthplace of the first secular California vineyards. Rancho owners purloined grapestock from the missions. Louis Vignes opened the first winery in 1833, followed by William Wolfskill who planted 145 acres of vineyards. To encourage the wine industry, land planted in grapes paid no city taxes.
Wine was already a big industry in California by the 1880s, when it moved to Northern California from the LA Basin after an outbreak of Phylloxera, a plant louse, killed all the Old World Vitis vinefera vines. (The lousy louse hitched a ride to Europe, decimating Europe’s vineyards too. The solution: graft Old World stock onto native American Vitis labrusca roots.) The wine industry moved, lock, stock, and wine barrel to Northern California. San Francisco and the Bay Area proved to be ideal for growing grapes.
In Napa County, Joseph Osbourne, and George Yount were among the first anglo settlers to plant vines in 1836, Followed by Sam Brannan, but John Patchett is credited for building the first winery, planting vines in 1854, establishing a commercial wine cellar in 1859. However, bottling wine and getting it to market was prohibitive. Glass bottles were in short supply and pricy, at 20 cents each, so people brought their own jugs to be filled, at 25 cents a gallon. Enter the wine houses.
When the California Wine Association was founded in San Francisco, there were over 100 commercial wine houses in SF alone. “Wine houses were large operations that bought grapes, made wine, and shipped it around the world.”
Sonoma County, not Napa, is considered to be the official birthplace of the modern California wine industry. Buena Vista is California's oldest extant winery. Count Agoston Haraszthy founded a winery in 1857, planting mission grapes purloined from the Sonoma Mission, and the famous Zinfandel grape. (BV was the only winery to stay open during the Prohibition as it made sacramental wines.) Buena Vista and Gundlach Bundschu were the first true commercial wineries. When President Abraham Lincoln purchased California wines, a stellar industry was born.
“After the 1906 earthquake and fire in San Francisco, the California Wine Association built the world’s largest winery on Pt. Molate near Richmond. Winehaven was a city-state, with housing for workers, a school, a big house for the boss, train tracks, a port, and the capacity to store 10 million gallons of wine at once. “
And to bring this rather long footnote on my aunt, the Gallo Girl, full circle: Ernest and Julio Gallo entered the wine business after the Prohibition ended, in 1933, having worked in their father’s vineyard. Giuseppe Gallo who hailed from Fossano, Northern Italy. Giuseppe was a menial laborer, who managed to save up his money and buy some land in Modesto, and plant a vineyard. But it seems life was hard. After their parents died (in a grisly murder suicide pact), Ernest and Julio decided to make their own wine, using a recipe they found in a local library. And with that, they founded an empire. A younger brother, dairy rancher Joseph Gallo, marketed his cheese, but a family feud ensued, they took him to court for using the family name.
Ernest Gallo famously said, "We don't want most of the business. We want it all.” Gallo and its subsidiary wineries, is the largest exporter of California wines.
Sources The Wine Cellar Insider
The History Reader
California Mission Life