Sea of Cortez at Cabo San Lucas
At Playa del Amor, a
beach that goes through the peninsula on the west, the Pacific scoops
huge crescents of coarse granite sand on the beach. Light passes through
the curl of a wave, an indescribable turquoise.
On the
Sea of Cortez side of Cabo, the calm water is a little greener, more
aquamarine. And we snorkel amid the rocks and drift over the great
depths, following the fish. This was John's third dive, the first one at
Mulegé wasn't spectacular, but he learned the basic principles. I was a
cautious teacher, as John was not a confident swimmer, whereas I was
like a dolphin. We didn't go out past the edge of the reef, as it was
very shallow and murky do this due to the suspended coral bloom so there
were no colorful fish to tantalize the eye.
On our
second dive at the wreck of the tuna boat in the harbor, John was still
far too nervous to go out more than a few feet, so I explored the boat
alone. The rocks and submerged islands offered a wealth of fish and he
was hooked on snorkeling.
The fish were the wildflowers
of the sea, blooming from rock to rock, capricious flores. The dive at
Playa del Amor was like less spectacular in terms of fish, through the
fish that were present, were much larger. I was too tired to go out
around the point and I had no flippers so I didn't get a chance to see
that if there was any better snorkeling. Later, there many divers were
in the area.
I think the tuna boat wreck in the harbor
had much better diving. Our last day at Cabo, we went back to the tuna
wreck and John explored the rocks and the boat. Not as many fish at the
boat as compared to yesterday.
I caught the tail of a
porcupine puffer fish between my toes after a short chase, and gently
tugged on him to make him inflate. He was a slow swimmer and was not
used to being molested. Because of his thorny body, I'm sure few
creatures find him appetizing.
By comparison, Caribbean
pufferfish have iridescent peacock blue eyes. This one had brownish
eyes. The little blimp eyed me remorsefully!
I point
out a yellow and white and black angelfish, not a Moorish idol, and
colorful groupers, and rust-brown gobies with those ridiculous eyes on
the tops of their heads, clinging to the sides of the boat like limpets.
They watched us pass baleful stares, their little fins like hands, on
the rocks.
We are surrounded by many types of butterfly
fish, one needlenosed yellow and black one. And schools of surgeonfish.
Blues and yellows, striped schools of silvery cowfish along th esandy
bottom. I point out grunts, boxfish, neons, tetras, wrasse, pipefish,
trumpetfish, parrotfish, a unicornfish and barbed bass.
A
pair of pale blue fish, like jacks or mackerels with long dorsal fins,
looking very much like angelfish cruise me. A surprisingly orange fish,
similar to a butterfly fish, but larger, with its fins outlined in neon
blue, carefully checks me out. A garibaldi of sorts?
A
school of tiny neon blue and black fish like a cloud of dust motes. A
colorful male boxfish sculls with his drab black-and-white mate. They
have transparent fins that look like twirling shawls of flamenco
dancers, to propel themselves forward, which makes them look a little
like hovering gnats, or helicopters.
Schools of pale
green coronet fish or pipefish hover at the surface and trumpetfish with
blue plaid coats and spatula mouths rest on the bottom. Both species
have long mouths and thin bodies, with eyes an somewhere forward of the
middle, and they're funny looking like cartoons. The pipefish with its
slender narrow mouth and teeth, is like a beak of a hummingbird.
And there are as many varieties of fish in the sea as there are birds in the air
Try
and describe the differences between an ostrich, a kiwi, a parrot, a
swallow, a hummingbird or a penguin to someone who is blind. This is
what it was like to describe the fish of the sea to someone who has
never before snorkeled, to see them in books, or in aquariums is not
enough. John is amazed. He had no idea such richness lay beneath the
skin of the sea.
People tend not to see the creatures,
and even dismiss them when they're in a man-made environment. When
you're swimming among the fish, as guests in their world, you gain a
whole new perspective of them.
It seems I can never get
enough of seeing them. I no sooner memorize shapes and colors of one
species, and another equally interesting one comes along and I've
totally forgotten what markings and what fish I was memorizing the
details of. Multiply this by 20 to 30 species and the results is chaos,
pure chaos, a glut of color and shape and form.
There are very few books with decent pictures of tropical fish—most are downright lousy.
I'd like to see a delux coffee-table book of tropical fish in
natural clusters because the different species cohabitate
together in riotous color.
Most photos are taken with
flash which changes the colors of the fish. And many fish also change
colors at night too. Or when they're frightened. Or according to mood.
Like the poor dorado, or dolphinfish that flashed all the colors of the
rainbow and the northern lights as he was strung up by the tail on the
dock hoist for the obligatory big game photo.
12/4-5/198?
Cabo San Lucas, Baja